Tuesday, May 29, 2018

Badlands National Park

The final stop of our Memorial Day trip was to Badlands National Park.  This is a postcard we bought at the Visitor's Center there that I thought I'd use as the cover of this blog.
In order to get to 240,000 acre of Badlands, you have to drive down I-90 (unless you're at the Stronghold Unit within the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation where the Oglala Lakota in cooperation with the National Park Service, you really don't have any access to Badlands except for the White River Visitor's Center at the bottom right corner).  Generally speaking the Badlands National Park is the upper section either starting at the Wall, South Dakota side or the Ben Reifel Visitor's Center at Exit 131.   Bring your big rig, because this park is VERY friendly for those with RVs!  There is huge section of parking at the Visitor's Center along with most outlets allowing for RVs.  If an outlet doesn't have RV parking, they had parallel parking next to it, so enjoy your trip.  There is also a little bit of camping and lodging here as well including a RV KOA nearby on Exit 131.
The Ben Reifel Visitor's Center has an information desk, exhibits, bookstore and restrooms.  It's a tight center since there are so many people who come explore Badlands and lines to purchase items can get long at times.  Next to the Visitors Center is Cedar Pass Lodge - open in the spring, summer and fall.  I enjoyed viewing the artwork on the walls.
Painting by Nana Gerasmova
(Spring 2001 Artist in Residence)
"Running Bison" Photography by Rikk Flohr
(Winter 2010 Artist in Residence)
I LOVED this book at the bookstore of a mom and baby bison.  Isn't it precious?!
The Lakota called Badlands "mako sica" while the early French trappers called it "les mauvaises terres a traverser" both meaning "bad land".  The interesting thing about Badlands is that the rock formations and bands change color depending on what time of day you are sightseeing.  Early morning and late afternoon or evening shows more color changes due to shadowing or the moon.  Here are a few photos of the Yellow Mounds.
Though the Badlands seemed inhabitable at first glance, people have lived here for many years.  The earliest people here were Mammoth Hunters 11,000 years ago.  Recently, the Arikara was the first tribe to inhabit the land in the early 1800s and the Lakota Sioux replaced them.  Soon, French fur trappers, the first anglo European people, came.  Following the trappers came soldiers, miners, cattlemen and homesteaders all living among the Badlands.  After the 1890 Wounded Knee Massacre the Lakota were confined to reservations.  Soon, cattle replaced bison; wheat fields replaced prairies and cars replaced horses.  It was an ever evolving area.  The bison that were so important to the Lakota nearly became extinct due to fur traders...this was the life in the Badlands.  Here's some photos of our trip today.  These are some photos Sue took mainly of the left side of the road:
And here are some photos Scott took on the right side of the road:
Badlands is a ruggedly beautiful area and people from around the world come to view it.  Scott and I noted that Badlands reminded us of a baby version of Bryce Canyon National Park hoodoos with how the formations were shaping.  Anciently, the rhino, horse and saber-toothed cat once lived here while today bison, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs and black ferrets live now.  We saw lots of big horn sheep up close and personal today!  On this trip, we had the opportunity to see many big horn sheep grazing the valleys and mountain sides.  The first two we followed them as they grazed and walked soon crossing the road and then back again.
Here's a video of these cute creatures!  The first one is of them grazing while going up the mountain.  The second is of one of the sheep crossing back over the road when the larger of the two didn't want to cross to the other side so the first came back.  They were so close - it was amazing!!  Got the second one just as we were leaving.  Lucky us!
Then, we came across a second group of big horns...they were a herd of about 10 or more sheep.  This one you see in the silhouette is the same one below with the sun on him.
Finally, just before we left the park we saw a bunch of sheep just laying on tiny buttes dotting the hillside.  So fun!
There are a few small hiking areas and many places that you can exit your vehicle and just walk along the formations.  Most hikes are easy to moderate so enjoy a relaxing day with the family just exploring what Badlands has to offer.  Many are wheelchair accessible so there's something for everyone. If you're planning a long hike, they can be strenuous so bring lots of water, compass, map and wear the appropriate clothing.  Talk to the rangers before you attempt this.  There are rattlers out there.


Door Trail - 3/4 mile round trip (easy)
Window Trail - 1/4 mile round trip (easy)
Notch Trail - 1.5 mile round trip (moderate)
Castle Trail - 10 miles round trip (moderate)
Cliff Shelf - 1/2 mile round trip (moderate)
Saddle Pass - 1/4 mile round trip (strenuous)
Medicine Route - 4 miles round trip (moderate)
Fossil Exhibit Trail - 1/4 mile round trip (easy)

Also, besides hiking, Badlands National Park has a night sky program in the evening hours.  If you're spending the night there or camping, be sure to attend since there nothing out there but stars.  They also have a junior ranger program.  So be sure you have your kids do that.
Photo by Wally Pacholka / AstroPics
An interesting phenomenon we've found here in Rapid City is that every night is a torrential thunder and lightening storms with lots of rain including downpours.  Badlands are no exception and the precipitation is the highest in June!  You'd think it this chart would be opposite.  But, we also found this trip to Badlands very beautiful because of the lush, lime green, spring color contrasting the beautiful formations.
Hope you enjoyed our little tour of Badlands National Park.  It's a fun park to spend a few hours or a few days in.  Enjoyable for the whole family - young and old.

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